Logistics
Getting to the Chateau
You have a few options for getting to Chateau de Borie:
Fly to Paris and take the high-speed TGV train (3 hrs) direct to Agen.
This involves getting yourself from the Paris airport (Charles de Gaul or Orly) to Montparnasse train station which costs about 50 euros (from CDG) and takes about an hour depending on traffic. You can also go by public transport, but it’s pretty convoluted.
I suggest buying your train tickets in advance here:
https://www.sncf-connect.com/ or www.thetrainline.com
Note on trains: Be sure to get the TGV train. It takes about 3 hours. There are others that take twice that so don’t go for those. There are two train companies: InOui (government-run) and OuiGo (private company). OuiGo trains are cheaper but are non-refundable and so if you are late for your train, you’re out of luck. I recommend buying InOui train tickets if possible and then if you are late or early, you can change your tickets.
From Montparnasse, you will need to find the track your train leaves from. This can be tricky because the tracks are posted on TVs, and so you need to know the number of your train and the time it leaves because there are a ton of trains all seeming to be going to the same place often within minutes of each other. Trains to Agen will not list Agen as a final destination because it never is. It will usually be Bordeaux, Toulouse, or Barcelona.
All the trains to Agen from Paris will go through Bordeaux. If you’re on a direct train, it will just stop there for a few minutes, but if not you will need to get out at Bordeaux and change trains.
2. Fly to Toulouse and take the 1 hr train to Agen
This is usually the option I choose. From the Toulouse airport, it’s a 20-30 min taxi to the train station or a fairly easy bus ride. There are lots of trains to Agen, so it’s easier to just get your ticket when you arrive. You could even opt to spend a few days in Toulouse either before or after your time at Chateau de Borie because it’s a super fun place!
3. Fly to Bordeaux and take the 1 hr train to Agen
I haven’t actually done this, because it always seems to be way more expensive to fly to Bordeaux than Toulouse, but it would be just as easy and the same procedure as Toulouse. Get yourself to the Bordeaux train station and then get a (fairly frequent) train to Agen.
In any of these cases, I will pick you up at the Agen train station and then it’s just a 7 min drive to the house.
Note: Flights from North America always arrive the next day in France. Be sure to build that extra day into your planning.
Travel Insurance
It is highly recommended that you purchase travel insurance for both your flight and your trip. You can purchase Travel Insurance through an agent or provider of insurance of your choice, examples: www.allianztravelinsurance.com, www.worldnomads.com, www.travelexinsurance.com, https://www.travelguard.com, Or use one of the following sites to compare among options: www.insuremytrip.com / www.squaremouth.com
Be sure to also check with your credit card company to see what coverage you may already have there.
Language
In Paris, a lot of people speak English, but as you get to the countryside, you’ll find fewer people do. Navigating the trains can be tricky if you don’t speak French, so pay attention to the numbers (train number, car number, and time of train), and you should be able to find your way. If in doubt, ask, even in English. You will eventually find the help you need.
Rental Cars
You are more than welcome to rent a car so you will have more independence while you are here. There is lots of parking here at the chateau. In the past, I rented cars at the Toulouse airport, which was pretty easy. Be prepared however for getting a manual transmission car. Most cars here are manual, though you may be able to request an automatic when you book. To drive to Chateau de Borie from the Toulouse airport takes about an hour and a half and there is a toll road. Toll Roads accept credit cards, so are fairly easy to manage.
Money
I find most US credit cards work here, though many merchants will be surprised when they realize you have to sign the receipt. They are not used to that as everyone here uses debit cards. US Debit cards are a little iffier to use in shops but work most of the time at ATMs for getting cash. Obviously, depending on the card you have your bank may charge high international transaction fees, so be careful. I don’t recommend coming with a mittful of cash though, as that can get lost or stolen. You will not find anywhere here that accepts anything other than euros, so you won’t get very far with US dollars.
Agen
There is a lot to do in Agen. There is an Art Museum and opera house, a couple of gorgeous cathedrals and lots of good shopping and restaurants and a river to walk along and even a water park! We will be doing an excursion to Agen, but you will also have free time if you want to go on your own.
Close to the Chateau, a bike/walking trail runs along the canal and into Agen. To walk into Agen takes about 30-40 mins. I am looking into renting some bikes for the summer, a few of which I hope will be electric, because the driveway to the chateau is uphill.
Environs
There are many beautiful little villages around Agen worth exploring, a few within 10-20 km, so if you do rent a car, there are lots to do and see.
Summer/early fall at Chateau de Borie
If last summer is anything to go by, Agen gets hot in the summer and into September, but I think early October will be quite comfortable. That said, the house does not have air conditioning, so it’s just fans and open windows.
Given the shady property, mosquitos have found a haven here. I’m hoping that some of the work I’m doing now will help mitigate the problem, but the reality is that this property has 7 natural springs, so there is standing water everywhere. All this to say, bring lots of bug spray and long clothing if you are particularly prone. My trick is to drink a gin and tonic (Mosquitos hate the quinine in tonic) and I’m only half joking.
Food
I am sure that there will be a variety of food allergies and whatnot, but I have to say, the food here is so fresh and lacking preservatives that you will never feel better eating food! But, of course, we will accommodate food allergies as you have already provided.
Alcohol
Each of us will be responsible for bringing our own wine to the table, but I don’t have much alcohol other than wine here, but you are more than welcome to bring your own.
Chloe
My dog Chloe is a small Boston Terrier, the true Chatelaine of this place! She loves nothing more than to pester everyone with a ball and will scream at you until you throw it. She will hopefully not be too troublesome to anyone. She is known to sleep in other beds than mine (she has her own bed in my room) and is a loud snorer, so if that’s not your jam, just lead her out and close your door.
Departures
Depending on flight times, you may want to consider booking a hotel near the airport the night before your flight. Sometimes trains can be unpredictable, so it can ease anxiety.
Please send me your travel itinerary so I can get your comings and goings into my calendar.
I’m happy to answer any questions you might have. You can reach me at hello@chateauchronicles.com
I’m looking forward to you joining me on this crazy adventure!
À bientôt,
Abby